my question is will this gap allow the vinyl to move more than the 1/4 in space left? And, I haven’t started laying it yet, how do you decide which direction to lay the tile. Also, the quarter round over the gap using adhesive to attach to the aluminum is good.
See if this represents your gap problem. The gap under the base boards allows for the laminate planks to side under, so I was originally going to have the planks under the baseboard and leave an expansion gap (hidden) under the baseboards. You will still need to have an expansion gap for installation, as the flooring can still move with temperature changes throughout the year. Sounds like your area was to large. Whew – Reece Mc Jun 8 '17 at 16:16. add a comment | 1 Answer Active Oldest Votes. Not a cheap one either....... a On the plank under the jambs, we usually will shave the lip of the locking mechanism not cut it all the way off. Lessons learned for sure. I am upset because we spent over $3000 on this flooring. Hello folks, I'm new to this website and forum so hi and hope you can help! With temperature changes, the floor has a tendency to expand and contract. You can check out our guide to laminate installation here if you still have questions: The laminated flooring I bought has been sat in packs in the house for over a month (been busy!).
We followed instructions and left 1/4 inch for expansion. Take the baseboard off and install your floor. Is there any way I could leave the 1/4inch gap all round, and use a flexible caulk to finish the edge?Hi Ty, thanks for the question. A proper finishing molding will cover the gap!I am covering my 10 year old basement floor (grey painted) with vinyl click tiles. Is this okay?Hi Brian, great question.
Thanks, PaulPaul, the only thing I can think of is removing the floor and reinstalling by gluing the joints. Just post it notes with an address, and a note saying "basement bathroom, vinyl, needs new base. Typically installers that follow the instructions per the manufacturer have no problems such as this. We’ll have to look into this idea more!I believe that the strip of “material” that you’re talking about is silicon calk. However, what happens when we remove those spaces and the boards are able to move farther under the trim? dont think it was installed "incorrectly" but I do know that too big a gap can cause problems You’ll have two challenges:1) The vertical obstruction of the door casing will prevent you from being able to angle the plank (that’s the “limited clearance”) to employ its locking system because it has to horizontally slide under the door casing and therefore,In the video, he demonstrates how you can use a standard utility knife to shave the upper lip of the groove off but it takes a little bit of work and will drag your knuckles across the subfloor. I think you will be fine cutting it flush to the baseboard, however, you may not be able to have it perfect and could see some gaps.
He did leave space between the walls and the laminate and did everything the instructions said. How do we avoid this or what are we doing wrong?Dan, The problem you are describing could be plank or installation related. You can remove the spacers once you have the flooring installed, but the gap should remain.Hello. Thank youI have wrought iron a railing at the edge of my room going down a stairway. It is a very dry basement. Post by munkeeizm » Tue Jun 05, 2007 8:07 pm. I just installed a laminate floor and somehow one of the planks in the middle of the floor ended up having a wider expansion gap than the rest. Always leave a quarter of an inch for expansion!Hi Tyler, I am about to lay laminate flooring over a large area, approx 12 meters x 5 meters, what size expansion gap should I leave? The recommended expansion gap is a minimum of ¼ inch. Please let us know if you have any other questions!We just laid our entire living room with wpc plank flooring with an underlayment over concrete but did not use spacers. You cannot expect a laminate install that large to stay together. He’s caulking the gaps? These are typically covered with a quarter round or transition molding. You could either add additional grouting on the tile side or replace the last row of laminate (or cut a small piece to add on) so that it fits to the molding. It worked, but now I have nothing holding the door jam board in
You will just need to check that your molding will cover the gap.Would 1/2 or 1 inch be too much of a gap on sides of the wall if error were made when cutting planks.Hi Shara, thanks for your question. What do you think? I installed a Mohawk product with click-lock, 12mm thick, 7"+ wide plank.